Keeping it simple
All our eyes were fixed, with a measure of urgency, on the impenetrable jungle foliage along the banks of Belize’s Macal River, which snakes its way through the Chiquibul Forest Reserve. We were looking for an opening to serve as an egress point, where my party of four could pitch up for the night. As the light faded, the intense noise of the jungle began to escalate. Finally, with just a few minutes of tropical twilight remaining, we found a potential exit point.
Earlier that day, I had discovered two things: first, that our ‘guide’ had never been down this crocodile-infested river before, despite emphatic assurances that he had; and second, that the canoe that I had been given had a hole in the bottom. It had taken six gruelling hours to reach our access point, and we were already on the river before these small details surfaced.
As we paddled towards the small gap in the dense vegetation we noticed a log raft. This was evidence that locals known as xateros were regularly using the route for smuggling xate leaves from the forest reserve. The leaves are taken over the border into nearby Guatemala, where they are sold on to middlemen, eventually making their way into the Western floristry markets. The xateros are essentially poor Guatemalans trying to scratch a living by gathering these fishtail palm leaves.
However, the Chiquibul Forest is a protected reserve, so the Guatemalans aren’t welcome. If caught stealing the flora, they usually face jail. We had heard stories of the tension between the Belizean Defence Force and the xateros; the latter were rumoured to carry guns and rob Westerners. But as far as we were concerned, they were just rumours, and with no other option, we pitched camp. I ran some repairs on my canoe with a glue stick and gaffer tape, hid the boats and collapsed into my much-loved Clark hammock.
At sunrise, we found our boats as we had left them and swiftly struck camp. I clambered over to a small limestone rock-kettle to purify some water for the journey. I had my Pre-Mac PWP water purifier with me. Once assembled, it looks like a small rocket-propelled grenade (RPG). For years, I had remarked on this similarity, but on this particular morning, my observation was going to pay off.
As I hunkered down, I heard strangers moving through the jungle just above me. I knew there was no way to avoid being seen, so I waited for them to appear on the limestone streambed and then gave a friendly wave and a cheery ‘Good morning!’ The four plant smugglers immediately melted into the undergrowth, muttering to one another.
A moment later, the leader re-emerged. Grinning, he slowly levelled his shotgun at me. Before I really knew what I was doing, I reached down, picked up my plastic water purifier, placed it on my shoulder like an RPG and aimed it back at him. His initial predatory look turned to one of confusion and then of fear. He slowly backed off into the jungle and disappeared with his friends.
Rough stuff
When travelling through areas of wilderness for extended periods, you need to be able to rely on your equipment. It all needs to be tough, durable and versatile, but it doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated.
Although you want to avoid looking like a soldier in certain parts of the world, it has to be said that military-style bags are very robust and won’t tear easily when you’re pushing your way through thorny environs. An internal-frame bag can be chucked on and off buses and rammed under seats, unlike the external-framed pack, which is more cumbersome. Very few rucksacks are completely waterproof; lining your backpack with a canoeists’ dry bag (with a fold-top closure) will help to ensure that your kit stays dry.
In order to keep weight to a minimum, I usually opt for a tarp to sleep under. I use a lightweight bespoke flysheet made from an ultralight silicone-impregnated nylon. I always use a strong ridge cord, as death from deadfall branches is one of the biggest killers on tropical expeditions.
The tarp is the epitome of versatility as it can be pitched in many different ways to suit the weather and the terrain. With a little know-how, you can even turn a tarp into a boat.
When travelling in a treeless environment, a tent is the customary choice. My personal preference is for a single-skin ‘tipi’ (or ‘teepee’). My GoLite Hex 3 flysheet has many innovative features and is suitable for a range of environments. Being a tipi design, it’s effective in high winds and mountain conditions, and is quick and easy to erect. You can also ditch the central pole and use a paddle or walking pole instead.
I use both the tarp and the tipi in conjunction with a waterproof, breathable bivi bag. The bivi acts as a groundsheet, creates a wind barrier and, most importantly, protects my sleeping bag in damp environments. It can even double up as a waterproof rucksack liner. If your bivi doesn’t have built-in midge protection, make sure you carry a midge head net rather than a mosquito net (the latter has a wider mesh, through which some insects can pass).
The knife is undoubtedly the most frequently used tool of the woodsman; it’s used every day for a multitude of bush tasks. The sharper the knife, the safer it is: you are only as sharp as your knife!
Used in the right environment, the axe and the machete are the two most versatile wilderness tools. With knowledge, these tools can be employed for a myriad of purposes, from felling large trees to many finer tasks. A large axe is safer, as it’s more likely to bury itself in the ground before it changes the length of your toes. However, a large axe is cumbersome to carry, so a happy medium may need to be reached.
Cutting tools are great assets if used correctly and safely, but have severe penalties for the careless or inexperienced. When travelling, be sensible, carry a comprehensive first aid kit and find out the legal situation regarding the carrying of knives and tools in the country to which you’re travelling.
Make a meal of it
When it comes to mealtimes, my preference is to cook over an open fire. However, this won’t always be possible due to physical limitations such as weather conditions or a lack of firewood, or environmental constraints when travelling in protected areas. In these situations, I use a multi-fuel stove.
I like to travel with a carrying capacity of up to five litres of water. The system I use is a couple of one-litre NATO bottles and a flexible three-litre Camelbak. On extended journeys, you might want to consider a ten-litre Ortlieb bag. This can be rolled
up to save space, and is also useful at base camp.
To make water safe to drink, you first need to filter it to remove suspended solids such as insects, grit and decaying vegetable matter. The water then needs to be boiled or chemically treated, as filtering alone doesn’t make water safe to drink. Filters can be improvised, but the best commercial model is the venerable Millbank bag.
My preferred chemical treatment is iodine, which, if used correctly, is a very fast and effective method for water purification. Iodine destroys parasites, bacteria, viruses and cysts. Some of the best all-in-one iodine-based systems are the aforementioned Pre-Macs, which pump water through a carbon filter and then a chamber that contains an advanced pentaiodide resin complex to kill the pathogens. This also releases an iodine residual, which, after a couple of minutes of holding, makes the water safe to drink or store. Treated water remains potable for days and ensures that the container stays sterile.
As a backup, I usually carry a tincture of iodine. However, in this form, the iodine has some drawbacks: it shouldn’t be used if you are pregnant, if you have an existing thyroid condition, by minors, or on a long-term basis. If in any doubt, seek medical advice.
Flies, fabric and feet
Insect protection is well worth a mention. In addition to practicing good bite-avoidance procedures, I use Nordic Summer repellent against midges (the only product I’ve found that works). I use DEET-based products to deter mosquitoes when travelling in malarial areas.
Your choice of base layer depends on your environment. In the desert, cotton is king. In colder climes, I find that breathable merino wool garments make for perfect base layers. Around open fires, a woollen mid-layer is great. However, on mountain trips, fleece is a lighter and faster-drying option. When it comes to outer layers, buy the best you can afford. I think Ventile fabric is great for expedition life. This finely woven cotton is tough, durable and windproof. It’s also highly breathable, showerproof and mosquito-proof.
Last, and by no means least, your feet deserve special attention. They are your primary mode of transport in the outdoors. They are the body parts that are furthest from your heart and, as a result, they can easily get cold. They can also release up to half a cup of sweat a day. I wear good-quality wool socks: wool doesn’t hold odours like synthetic fabrics as it neutralises many chemicals and acids. This helps to prevent a buildup of bacteria.
I also carry a ‘foo-foo’ bag. This is a dry bag, big enough to get a foot inside, that contains anti-bacterial powder. I simply dip my feet in at night to massage and powder them.
Today, it’s becoming increasingly easy to visit truly wild places, which has created a booming market for fancy outdoor gear, designed for comfort on the trail. It’s fair to argue that the modern approach enables us to travel further and achieve more than our ancestors could. However, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to escape technology. Everywhere we go, we search for a signal and switch on electronic devices. Even on expeditions, there’s an increasing pressure to upload a daily blog, so that the folks back home can chart your progress. By using more low-tech kit and learning wilderness-living skills, there are greater rewards to be gained: not by logging on, but by chilling out, whittling by a campfire, under the stars, waiting for your billy to boil.
Look after your water bottle so it can look after you
Even after treating water with chlorine or iodine, the neck of your water bottle could still be contaminated. To remedy this, screw on the lid, invert the bottle and then carefully unscrew the top until water begins to drip through. This will help to ensure that the screw threads of both the lid and the neck of the bottle are chemically treated.
The taste of both chlorine and iodine can be removed from treated water by neutralising the chemical – after it has had time to work – with ascorbic acid (vitamin C). However, residual ascorbic acid in a water bottle will stop future disinfectant actions, so mix it in a separate vessel. The same tactic applies to fruit drinks, which are also rich in vitamin C.
Don’t leave billy at home
For my cookware, I carry a stainless steel NATO Crusader Canteen mug and two homemade nesting billycans, made from inexpensive stainless-steel coffee canisters. Stainless steel is a little heavier than other materials, but it’s robust, can be used over a fire and can be thoroughly cleaned with scourers, grass roots or sand without scratching. It can also be sterilised by being held over a flame. ‘Top hat’-style billycans are best for open fires, while shallower, wide-based pots are better for stove use. If fire-blackened, your billy should be stowed in a stuff sack to keep the rest of your gear clean.
Ben McNutt spent three years as an instructor with Ray Mears’ company before setting up his own school of bushcraft. His courses, which are conducted from an expedition style base-camp, are predominantly skills based, with an emphasis on students gaining first-hand experience. To find out more, visit www.woodsmoke.uk.com
March 2008
Earlier that day, I had discovered two things: first, that our ‘guide’ had never been down this crocodile-infested river before, despite emphatic assurances that he had; and second, that the canoe that I had been given had a hole in the bottom. It had taken six gruelling hours to reach our access point, and we were already on the river before these small details surfaced.
As we paddled towards the small gap in the dense vegetation we noticed a log raft. This was evidence that locals known as xateros were regularly using the route for smuggling xate leaves from the forest reserve. The leaves are taken over the border into nearby Guatemala, where they are sold on to middlemen, eventually making their way into the Western floristry markets. The xateros are essentially poor Guatemalans trying to scratch a living by gathering these fishtail palm leaves.
However, the Chiquibul Forest is a protected reserve, so the Guatemalans aren’t welcome. If caught stealing the flora, they usually face jail. We had heard stories of the tension between the Belizean Defence Force and the xateros; the latter were rumoured to carry guns and rob Westerners. But as far as we were concerned, they were just rumours, and with no other option, we pitched camp. I ran some repairs on my canoe with a glue stick and gaffer tape, hid the boats and collapsed into my much-loved Clark hammock.
At sunrise, we found our boats as we had left them and swiftly struck camp. I clambered over to a small limestone rock-kettle to purify some water for the journey. I had my Pre-Mac PWP water purifier with me. Once assembled, it looks like a small rocket-propelled grenade (RPG). For years, I had remarked on this similarity, but on this particular morning, my observation was going to pay off.
As I hunkered down, I heard strangers moving through the jungle just above me. I knew there was no way to avoid being seen, so I waited for them to appear on the limestone streambed and then gave a friendly wave and a cheery ‘Good morning!’ The four plant smugglers immediately melted into the undergrowth, muttering to one another.
A moment later, the leader re-emerged. Grinning, he slowly levelled his shotgun at me. Before I really knew what I was doing, I reached down, picked up my plastic water purifier, placed it on my shoulder like an RPG and aimed it back at him. His initial predatory look turned to one of confusion and then of fear. He slowly backed off into the jungle and disappeared with his friends.
Rough stuff
When travelling through areas of wilderness for extended periods, you need to be able to rely on your equipment. It all needs to be tough, durable and versatile, but it doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated.
Although you want to avoid looking like a soldier in certain parts of the world, it has to be said that military-style bags are very robust and won’t tear easily when you’re pushing your way through thorny environs. An internal-frame bag can be chucked on and off buses and rammed under seats, unlike the external-framed pack, which is more cumbersome. Very few rucksacks are completely waterproof; lining your backpack with a canoeists’ dry bag (with a fold-top closure) will help to ensure that your kit stays dry.
In order to keep weight to a minimum, I usually opt for a tarp to sleep under. I use a lightweight bespoke flysheet made from an ultralight silicone-impregnated nylon. I always use a strong ridge cord, as death from deadfall branches is one of the biggest killers on tropical expeditions.
The tarp is the epitome of versatility as it can be pitched in many different ways to suit the weather and the terrain. With a little know-how, you can even turn a tarp into a boat.
When travelling in a treeless environment, a tent is the customary choice. My personal preference is for a single-skin ‘tipi’ (or ‘teepee’). My GoLite Hex 3 flysheet has many innovative features and is suitable for a range of environments. Being a tipi design, it’s effective in high winds and mountain conditions, and is quick and easy to erect. You can also ditch the central pole and use a paddle or walking pole instead.
I use both the tarp and the tipi in conjunction with a waterproof, breathable bivi bag. The bivi acts as a groundsheet, creates a wind barrier and, most importantly, protects my sleeping bag in damp environments. It can even double up as a waterproof rucksack liner. If your bivi doesn’t have built-in midge protection, make sure you carry a midge head net rather than a mosquito net (the latter has a wider mesh, through which some insects can pass).
The knife is undoubtedly the most frequently used tool of the woodsman; it’s used every day for a multitude of bush tasks. The sharper the knife, the safer it is: you are only as sharp as your knife!
Used in the right environment, the axe and the machete are the two most versatile wilderness tools. With knowledge, these tools can be employed for a myriad of purposes, from felling large trees to many finer tasks. A large axe is safer, as it’s more likely to bury itself in the ground before it changes the length of your toes. However, a large axe is cumbersome to carry, so a happy medium may need to be reached.
Cutting tools are great assets if used correctly and safely, but have severe penalties for the careless or inexperienced. When travelling, be sensible, carry a comprehensive first aid kit and find out the legal situation regarding the carrying of knives and tools in the country to which you’re travelling.
Make a meal of it
When it comes to mealtimes, my preference is to cook over an open fire. However, this won’t always be possible due to physical limitations such as weather conditions or a lack of firewood, or environmental constraints when travelling in protected areas. In these situations, I use a multi-fuel stove.
I like to travel with a carrying capacity of up to five litres of water. The system I use is a couple of one-litre NATO bottles and a flexible three-litre Camelbak. On extended journeys, you might want to consider a ten-litre Ortlieb bag. This can be rolled
up to save space, and is also useful at base camp.
To make water safe to drink, you first need to filter it to remove suspended solids such as insects, grit and decaying vegetable matter. The water then needs to be boiled or chemically treated, as filtering alone doesn’t make water safe to drink. Filters can be improvised, but the best commercial model is the venerable Millbank bag.
My preferred chemical treatment is iodine, which, if used correctly, is a very fast and effective method for water purification. Iodine destroys parasites, bacteria, viruses and cysts. Some of the best all-in-one iodine-based systems are the aforementioned Pre-Macs, which pump water through a carbon filter and then a chamber that contains an advanced pentaiodide resin complex to kill the pathogens. This also releases an iodine residual, which, after a couple of minutes of holding, makes the water safe to drink or store. Treated water remains potable for days and ensures that the container stays sterile.
As a backup, I usually carry a tincture of iodine. However, in this form, the iodine has some drawbacks: it shouldn’t be used if you are pregnant, if you have an existing thyroid condition, by minors, or on a long-term basis. If in any doubt, seek medical advice.
Flies, fabric and feet
Insect protection is well worth a mention. In addition to practicing good bite-avoidance procedures, I use Nordic Summer repellent against midges (the only product I’ve found that works). I use DEET-based products to deter mosquitoes when travelling in malarial areas.
Your choice of base layer depends on your environment. In the desert, cotton is king. In colder climes, I find that breathable merino wool garments make for perfect base layers. Around open fires, a woollen mid-layer is great. However, on mountain trips, fleece is a lighter and faster-drying option. When it comes to outer layers, buy the best you can afford. I think Ventile fabric is great for expedition life. This finely woven cotton is tough, durable and windproof. It’s also highly breathable, showerproof and mosquito-proof.
Last, and by no means least, your feet deserve special attention. They are your primary mode of transport in the outdoors. They are the body parts that are furthest from your heart and, as a result, they can easily get cold. They can also release up to half a cup of sweat a day. I wear good-quality wool socks: wool doesn’t hold odours like synthetic fabrics as it neutralises many chemicals and acids. This helps to prevent a buildup of bacteria.
I also carry a ‘foo-foo’ bag. This is a dry bag, big enough to get a foot inside, that contains anti-bacterial powder. I simply dip my feet in at night to massage and powder them.
Today, it’s becoming increasingly easy to visit truly wild places, which has created a booming market for fancy outdoor gear, designed for comfort on the trail. It’s fair to argue that the modern approach enables us to travel further and achieve more than our ancestors could. However, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to escape technology. Everywhere we go, we search for a signal and switch on electronic devices. Even on expeditions, there’s an increasing pressure to upload a daily blog, so that the folks back home can chart your progress. By using more low-tech kit and learning wilderness-living skills, there are greater rewards to be gained: not by logging on, but by chilling out, whittling by a campfire, under the stars, waiting for your billy to boil.
Look after your water bottle so it can look after you
Even after treating water with chlorine or iodine, the neck of your water bottle could still be contaminated. To remedy this, screw on the lid, invert the bottle and then carefully unscrew the top until water begins to drip through. This will help to ensure that the screw threads of both the lid and the neck of the bottle are chemically treated.
The taste of both chlorine and iodine can be removed from treated water by neutralising the chemical – after it has had time to work – with ascorbic acid (vitamin C). However, residual ascorbic acid in a water bottle will stop future disinfectant actions, so mix it in a separate vessel. The same tactic applies to fruit drinks, which are also rich in vitamin C.
Don’t leave billy at home
For my cookware, I carry a stainless steel NATO Crusader Canteen mug and two homemade nesting billycans, made from inexpensive stainless-steel coffee canisters. Stainless steel is a little heavier than other materials, but it’s robust, can be used over a fire and can be thoroughly cleaned with scourers, grass roots or sand without scratching. It can also be sterilised by being held over a flame. ‘Top hat’-style billycans are best for open fires, while shallower, wide-based pots are better for stove use. If fire-blackened, your billy should be stowed in a stuff sack to keep the rest of your gear clean.
Ben McNutt spent three years as an instructor with Ray Mears’ company before setting up his own school of bushcraft. His courses, which are conducted from an expedition style base-camp, are predominantly skills based, with an emphasis on students gaining first-hand experience. To find out more, visit www.woodsmoke.uk.com
March 2008
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