Join the caving club
I am somewhere underground, deep in the Nakanai Mountains on the isolated island of New Britain, just off the southeast coast of Papua New Guinea. Yet again it has been raining on the surface, as the rising water levels in the cave indicate. This is making it difficult to claw my way upstream in a bid to survey more of the unexplored river passage. Up ahead, beyond the blackness, I can hear a thundering noise. Could it be a waterfall? If only we could get there and call it a day.
I check the time: 1.30am . It would take at least five hours to get back out to the entrance, followed by a walk of more than an hour through the sodden jungle to our camp. I’m shattered, as are my colleagues. For about 14 hours, we have been involved in the exploration of one of the world’s largest river passages. We’ve surveyed total of 4.2 kilometres, but we’re still keen to see what is around the next corner.
However, the way ahead looks even more challenging. What had been a relatively shallow and wide river has suddenly formed a deep, narrow channel that has increased the speed of the water flow. There is no way any of us is going to jump in, get swept away, and risk being drowned. Instead, we’re forced to backtrack to a point where we can climb up one of the walls and out of the water, and rig a Tyrolean traverse (tensioned line) over the river and onto the bank on the other side. Using ropes, pulleys, ascenders and descenders, we quickly construct our temporary bridge and pull ourselves across to the safe shores on the far side of the river passage. From here, we can continue upstream and into the unknown.
Going underground
Often, in underground exploration, there are times when you need to think quickly and get yourself out of an awkward situation using the gear you’re carrying. This regularly involves using equipment in an unconventional way.
Without question, caves are the darkest places on Earth, so lighting is paramount. As technology improves, cave lighting becomes ever more powerful and reliable. Back when caving was a new sport in the UK, the explorer used carbide lamps. Carbide was carried around the waist in a generator – a metal canister split into two halves – attached to a belt. Regulated drips of water fall from the top into the bottom and onto the chunks of carbide. This emits a gas called acetylene, which passes through a pipe to a headset mounted on the helmet, where it’s ignited, giving off a warm orange glow.
Then, from the mining industry, came halogen lights powered by lead acid batteries. These were more convenient as they could be recharged through the headset and used over and over again.
As completely sealed units, they offered a maintenance-free solution to carbide. However, compared to modern lights, lead acid batteries were very bulky and heavy to wear around the waist.
Modern manufacturers of head torches then resolved to design a light that used LED technology, and it was inevitable that a caving lamp would be fitted with these high-power LEDs. Today, a 14-LED module is the caver’s choice in lighting as it’s lightweight, bright and versatile. Entirely helmet-mounted, it eliminates both the bulky battery on your waistbelt and the cable, which can get in the way and snag on a rock.
The current models are based on a design that has been around for years. In its original form, battery life was always an issue as the halogen bulb was bright and thirsty, and consequently flattened the AA cells in less than four hours. However, advancements in LED and battery technology have changed that. LEDs have gone from being suitable as backup illumination to a good option as a primary or expedition-caving light. Many expedition cavers have retired their carbide lamps in favour of this system.
Cold caves
The average temperature in most caves in the UK is 8°C, but this figure changes when exploring caves elsewhere in the world. Choosing the right clothing is therefore crucial as it can determine the length of time you can spend underground. In the event of an accident or rescue, it’s vital to have warm layers. I always wear a couple of thin base layers beneath my fleece undersuit. This undersuit provides good all-round insulation, and the fleece material is comfortable and dries quickly during most caving trips.
An oversuit, normally made from either PVC or Cordura, accompanies the undersuit. PVC is a waterproof, tough, lightweight and flexible material, and provides oversuits that are great in wet caves, particularly when parts of the trip will be spent in stream passages or under waterfalls, where there is spray in the air. The downside is that PVC suits retain heat and moisture and aren’t as breathable as those comprising a thick Cordura material. With neoprene cuffs and collar, Cordura suits are a great choice as they are extremely hard-wearing and can withstand the knocks and scrapes associated with the cave environment. I carry both types of oversuits in my bag.
When it comes to footwear, there is no question what I would choose. Most outdoor retailers only stock one boot that is 100 per cent waterproof: the wellington. They are cheap and long-lasting, and are probably the best type of boot for caving, with no laces to foul up or wear through. Check that the wellie has a grippy sole, a strong midsole and a steel toecap.
Cavers generally wear neoprene wetsocks to help keep their toes warm. Made from flexible four-millimetre double-lined neoprene, these socks are easy to put on and remove. They are also simple to slide into wellies: single-layer neoprene socks tend to grip the sides of wellington boots. Neoprene is an excellent material for caving socks as more often than not, wellies end up collecting water, saturating everything inside (your feet). Neoprene is better than any other synthetic fabric for keeping your feet warm when immersed in water.
Know the ropes
Caving as a sport has gone through many significant changes over the years, but probably the most rewarding and beneficial is the introduction of the Single Rope Technique (SRT). Gaining access to vertical parts of caves used to mean using bulky ladders. Now, ropes and mechanical climbing devices help cavers to do this. SRT does the same job as older techniques, but it’s safer and more efficient. No longer does a second person have to sit at the top or bottom of a vertical section and belay the climber on the ladder.
Modern ropes are surprisingly strong and abrasion-resistant. They are constructed with a load-bearing core and an outer protective sheath that resists wear and tear, as well as the ingress
of dirt and grit. This type of rope is also extremely supple, which makes rigging and packing in confined spaces easy, and is essential for vertical caving.
By employing SRT, you can get into and explore pretty much any cave. Expedition caving tends to use ropes with smaller diameters, as size, space and weight of kit are more important when travelling to the other side of the globe. Yes, the strength does decrease, but not to a dangerously frail stage.
A standard SRT kit comprises a sit harness and a chest harness, a descending device, and a combination of ascenders (two mechanical devices that slide up the rope and use metal teeth to bite it so that they don’t slip back down). Cavers use short lengths of dynamic rope with a carabiner at one end to clip into the protection in the cave (be it a bolt or a sling) known as ‘cowstails’.
Last autumn, I was a member of an international expedition that explored a cave system in China. In order to push into the cave, we had to pass through possibly the largest underground natural shaft in the world. At 500 metres deep, tackling this would have been impossible without SRT. It took us two hours to descend through the shaft and four hours to ascend. The only resting place was a small ledge 250 metres above the ground.
Spare a thought
There are a few miscellaneous gadgets that I would recommend. A spare torch is always worth its weight in gold. If your primary headlamp was to fail, at least you could escape from the cave. A survival bag stuffed into the inside of your helmet is also something I would strongly advise. There is virtually no weight to this item, and as it sits inside your helmet, you don’t even know it’s there. However, should you or your friends get trapped and need to sit out a flood, then this survival bag provides a shelter from the draught and spray commonly found in caves. Inside my helmet, I also carry a Polar Buff balaclava.
I can transform it into whatever type of head garment I want. Finally, I always carry a knife for the emergency that I hope will never happen.
Don't forget...
… to fasten the chinstrap on your helmet. If you lose your helmet, you lose your light! And as you can probably imagine, this is a big issue when you are several hundred metres underground and suspended on a rope above a huge chasm, deep in the jungles of Borneo.
In addition to taking part in caving expeditions around the world, Robbie has worked with the BBC on a number of television projects, including Planet Earth and Ultimate Caving with Kate Humble. Robbie thanks Hitch n Hike for its help in the preparation of this article. Visit www.shonephotography.com for more details
Stockists and information
Bat Products: 01749 676 771
Beal: +33 (0)4 74 78 88 88; www.beal-planet.com
Bernies: 015242 41802; www.berniescafe.co.uk
Caving Supplies: 01298 71707; www.caving-supplies.co.uk
Daleswear : 015242 41477; www.daleswear.co.uk
Dunlop: 0870 873 9880; www.dunlopboots.com
Hitch n Hike: 01433 651013; www.hnhoutdoors.com
Inglesport: 015242 41146; www.inglesport.com
Meander: +421 55 489 9101; www.meander.sk
Petzl: 015396 25493; www.petzl.com
Princeton: +1 609 298 9331; www.princetontec.com
Warmbac: 01458 835567; www.warmbac.com
May 2008
I check the time: 1.30am . It would take at least five hours to get back out to the entrance, followed by a walk of more than an hour through the sodden jungle to our camp. I’m shattered, as are my colleagues. For about 14 hours, we have been involved in the exploration of one of the world’s largest river passages. We’ve surveyed total of 4.2 kilometres, but we’re still keen to see what is around the next corner.
However, the way ahead looks even more challenging. What had been a relatively shallow and wide river has suddenly formed a deep, narrow channel that has increased the speed of the water flow. There is no way any of us is going to jump in, get swept away, and risk being drowned. Instead, we’re forced to backtrack to a point where we can climb up one of the walls and out of the water, and rig a Tyrolean traverse (tensioned line) over the river and onto the bank on the other side. Using ropes, pulleys, ascenders and descenders, we quickly construct our temporary bridge and pull ourselves across to the safe shores on the far side of the river passage. From here, we can continue upstream and into the unknown.
Going underground
Often, in underground exploration, there are times when you need to think quickly and get yourself out of an awkward situation using the gear you’re carrying. This regularly involves using equipment in an unconventional way.
Without question, caves are the darkest places on Earth, so lighting is paramount. As technology improves, cave lighting becomes ever more powerful and reliable. Back when caving was a new sport in the UK, the explorer used carbide lamps. Carbide was carried around the waist in a generator – a metal canister split into two halves – attached to a belt. Regulated drips of water fall from the top into the bottom and onto the chunks of carbide. This emits a gas called acetylene, which passes through a pipe to a headset mounted on the helmet, where it’s ignited, giving off a warm orange glow.
Then, from the mining industry, came halogen lights powered by lead acid batteries. These were more convenient as they could be recharged through the headset and used over and over again.
As completely sealed units, they offered a maintenance-free solution to carbide. However, compared to modern lights, lead acid batteries were very bulky and heavy to wear around the waist.
Modern manufacturers of head torches then resolved to design a light that used LED technology, and it was inevitable that a caving lamp would be fitted with these high-power LEDs. Today, a 14-LED module is the caver’s choice in lighting as it’s lightweight, bright and versatile. Entirely helmet-mounted, it eliminates both the bulky battery on your waistbelt and the cable, which can get in the way and snag on a rock.
The current models are based on a design that has been around for years. In its original form, battery life was always an issue as the halogen bulb was bright and thirsty, and consequently flattened the AA cells in less than four hours. However, advancements in LED and battery technology have changed that. LEDs have gone from being suitable as backup illumination to a good option as a primary or expedition-caving light. Many expedition cavers have retired their carbide lamps in favour of this system.
Cold caves
The average temperature in most caves in the UK is 8°C, but this figure changes when exploring caves elsewhere in the world. Choosing the right clothing is therefore crucial as it can determine the length of time you can spend underground. In the event of an accident or rescue, it’s vital to have warm layers. I always wear a couple of thin base layers beneath my fleece undersuit. This undersuit provides good all-round insulation, and the fleece material is comfortable and dries quickly during most caving trips.
An oversuit, normally made from either PVC or Cordura, accompanies the undersuit. PVC is a waterproof, tough, lightweight and flexible material, and provides oversuits that are great in wet caves, particularly when parts of the trip will be spent in stream passages or under waterfalls, where there is spray in the air. The downside is that PVC suits retain heat and moisture and aren’t as breathable as those comprising a thick Cordura material. With neoprene cuffs and collar, Cordura suits are a great choice as they are extremely hard-wearing and can withstand the knocks and scrapes associated with the cave environment. I carry both types of oversuits in my bag.
When it comes to footwear, there is no question what I would choose. Most outdoor retailers only stock one boot that is 100 per cent waterproof: the wellington. They are cheap and long-lasting, and are probably the best type of boot for caving, with no laces to foul up or wear through. Check that the wellie has a grippy sole, a strong midsole and a steel toecap.
Cavers generally wear neoprene wetsocks to help keep their toes warm. Made from flexible four-millimetre double-lined neoprene, these socks are easy to put on and remove. They are also simple to slide into wellies: single-layer neoprene socks tend to grip the sides of wellington boots. Neoprene is an excellent material for caving socks as more often than not, wellies end up collecting water, saturating everything inside (your feet). Neoprene is better than any other synthetic fabric for keeping your feet warm when immersed in water.
Start the slideshow (6 pictures)
Know the ropes
Caving as a sport has gone through many significant changes over the years, but probably the most rewarding and beneficial is the introduction of the Single Rope Technique (SRT). Gaining access to vertical parts of caves used to mean using bulky ladders. Now, ropes and mechanical climbing devices help cavers to do this. SRT does the same job as older techniques, but it’s safer and more efficient. No longer does a second person have to sit at the top or bottom of a vertical section and belay the climber on the ladder.
Modern ropes are surprisingly strong and abrasion-resistant. They are constructed with a load-bearing core and an outer protective sheath that resists wear and tear, as well as the ingress
of dirt and grit. This type of rope is also extremely supple, which makes rigging and packing in confined spaces easy, and is essential for vertical caving.
By employing SRT, you can get into and explore pretty much any cave. Expedition caving tends to use ropes with smaller diameters, as size, space and weight of kit are more important when travelling to the other side of the globe. Yes, the strength does decrease, but not to a dangerously frail stage.
A standard SRT kit comprises a sit harness and a chest harness, a descending device, and a combination of ascenders (two mechanical devices that slide up the rope and use metal teeth to bite it so that they don’t slip back down). Cavers use short lengths of dynamic rope with a carabiner at one end to clip into the protection in the cave (be it a bolt or a sling) known as ‘cowstails’.
Last autumn, I was a member of an international expedition that explored a cave system in China. In order to push into the cave, we had to pass through possibly the largest underground natural shaft in the world. At 500 metres deep, tackling this would have been impossible without SRT. It took us two hours to descend through the shaft and four hours to ascend. The only resting place was a small ledge 250 metres above the ground.
Spare a thought
There are a few miscellaneous gadgets that I would recommend. A spare torch is always worth its weight in gold. If your primary headlamp was to fail, at least you could escape from the cave. A survival bag stuffed into the inside of your helmet is also something I would strongly advise. There is virtually no weight to this item, and as it sits inside your helmet, you don’t even know it’s there. However, should you or your friends get trapped and need to sit out a flood, then this survival bag provides a shelter from the draught and spray commonly found in caves. Inside my helmet, I also carry a Polar Buff balaclava.
I can transform it into whatever type of head garment I want. Finally, I always carry a knife for the emergency that I hope will never happen.
Don't forget...
… to fasten the chinstrap on your helmet. If you lose your helmet, you lose your light! And as you can probably imagine, this is a big issue when you are several hundred metres underground and suspended on a rope above a huge chasm, deep in the jungles of Borneo.
In addition to taking part in caving expeditions around the world, Robbie has worked with the BBC on a number of television projects, including Planet Earth and Ultimate Caving with Kate Humble. Robbie thanks Hitch n Hike for its help in the preparation of this article. Visit www.shonephotography.com for more details
Stockists and information
Bat Products: 01749 676 771
Beal: +33 (0)4 74 78 88 88; www.beal-planet.com
Bernies: 015242 41802; www.berniescafe.co.uk
Caving Supplies: 01298 71707; www.caving-supplies.co.uk
Daleswear : 015242 41477; www.daleswear.co.uk
Dunlop: 0870 873 9880; www.dunlopboots.com
Hitch n Hike: 01433 651013; www.hnhoutdoors.com
Inglesport: 015242 41146; www.inglesport.com
Meander: +421 55 489 9101; www.meander.sk
Petzl: 015396 25493; www.petzl.com
Princeton: +1 609 298 9331; www.princetontec.com
Warmbac: 01458 835567; www.warmbac.com
May 2008
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