Reins on the plains
It only took seconds to leap from the tent and rush barefoot into the darkness, but I was already too late. The sound of galloping horses faded beyond camp and I fell to my knees clutching the only remaining evidence of my equine friends: a bell and one pair of hobbles. The sweeping openness of the Mongolian steppe, which had inspired me in the light of day, now taunted me with its emptiness.
At two in the morning, just five days into a 10,000-kilometre horseback journey from Mongolia to Hungary on the ancient trail of mounted nomads, my horses had been stolen. Ironically, the bell I held in my hand was supposed to have woken me as my alarm against thieves. Only luck had kept my third horse from the rustlers. At dawn, I rode off, and by some miracle spotted my two stolen horses in a herd under the watch of a herdsman. ‘These horses came to me by themselves this morning. You must have tied them badly!’ he said, grinning.
It would take two more horse thefts, four testing border crossings and 13 horses before I reached the Danube. During my three-and-a-half-year journey, I experienced temperatures that ranged from –50°C on the ‘starving steppe’ to +50°C in the Kazakh desert. In hindsight, this first challenge was a gentle warning: you should never underestimate the dangers waiting to scuttle an equestrian journey.
Back in the saddle
Nothing ruins more horses, cancels more trips, and causes more agony for riders than the saddle. Choosing the right saddle is crucial, but the choice can be overwhelming when faced with such a huge array of saddle types and a market driven by the latest fashion. Recommendations from experienced riders before I began included western, Australian stock, endurance, First World War cavalry, and Mongolian styles. I was left not knowing whether to use a cutting-edge or traditional model.
When choosing a saddle, it’s pertinent to reflect on the horsemen and -women who domesticated the horse on the Eurasian steppe about 5,500 years ago. They rode their way into legend under leaders such as Attila and Genghis Khan. These equestrian explorers developed the first saddle, stirrup, bridle and bit. Their lives depended on these items. Although times have changed, the principles of choosing equipment, the needs of horses, and the fundamental design of the saddle haven’t. The saddle needs to be tough, light, sturdy, versatile, functional and safe for both horse and rider.
Be wary of colourful advertisements and advances in saddle technology, which are often only of value to riders in dressage rings who seldom ride as long or as hard as ‘Long Riders’ (as members of the Long Riders’ Guild are known). For example, synthetic saddles are lighter and cheaper than leather. But they soak up water like a sponge, dry slowly, and wear out rapidly.
On the road, you will be travelling six to eight hours a day in the saddle. You will be exposed to a wide range of weather conditions, there will be scant opportunity to clean your saddle, and you will have to fit it to a variety of different-shaped horses. Long saddles distribute weight over a greater area and can reduce the risk of horse injury, but they shouldn’t apply weight beyond the ribs. Stirrups should have a wide, flat base and not be tight-fitting. D-rings need to be strong and plentiful for attaching saddlebags. If someone suggests that the saddle is proven on an extended journey, then you want names, dates and distances.
Ultimately, it doesn’t matter whether your saddle is a traditional or modern design, but it must be a work of art from an equine engineering point of view.
Choosing the wrong saddle blanket can quickly lead to saddle sores. A golden rule is that anything applied directly to the horse with pressure, or that is prone to friction, should be a natural material. Don’t be fooled by synthetic pads, which may work for riders who only travel for a few hours each week on their horses. I used cotton and woollen blankets that could be folded to create eight different sides.
Using two blankets per horse meant I had 12 clean sides before I had to wash them. Folding them into different shapes also enabled me to compensate for problematic areas of the saddle on the horse and create a better fit. These blankets could be hung out to dry at the end of a day’s ride. In the hot summer, they doubled as a way of insulating the tent from searing heat. Blankets such as these were used universally for light horse cavalry in Europe during the 20th century. Also, brushes that get through the hair to the skin are essential in keeping the horses’ backs clean and helps to prevent saddle sores.
Shed the kilos
By drying meat, the Mongols said they could ‘fit a sheep in their pocket’. Travelling light was the key to their military dominance and it’s also crucial for any modern equestrian traveller. As the Long Riders’ Guild motto goes: ‘It’s not the kilometres that kill your horse. It’s the kilograms’. You should approach equestrian travel like a climber taking measures to minimise weight. Make the most of modern, ultra-light mountaineering equipment and clothing.
An item that isn’t used frequently or doesn’t have more than one use isn’t worth keeping, even if this means going without comforts. For example, use your saddle blankets instead of a sleeping mat. As an old Kalmyk saying from the steppes reminds us, ‘even a needle is weight’.
You can’t be too careful when packing a horse. Many equestrian expeditions have failed because of packsaddles that ruined the horses. Choose small saddlebags for your riding horse; large ones tempt the rider to take too much and risk severe injuries to the animal. Regardless of whether you choose the traditional sawbuck packsaddle, an early 20th-century design, or the modern adjustable style, it’s important to understand that unlike a rider who shifts his or her body and position around on a horse, pack loads are dead weight.
Fifty kilograms of load is the equivalent of a 90-kilogram person. As such, the packsaddle must be fitted to perfection, and the load must be even on both sides. A lightweight set of scales is essential. The total load shouldn’t exceed 50 kilograms.
The decision to use rigid pack boxes or soft bags is an important one. Apart from specialised journeys – such as through thick forests where bulky objects get in the way – boxes are a better option. They are faster and easier to pack, double as chairs in camp, are more durable, and protect your gear more effectively.
A halter/bridle combination is commonly used by Long Riders, but I threw away my bridle and rode without a bit. I used a rein attached to my rope halter. This allowed my horses to eat and drink freely on the move. And in winter, they didn’t have to endure metal in their mouths. Not surprisingly, Ghengis Khan forbade the wearing of bits while his army was on the march.
As proof that it’s important not to overlook modern materials, my halters proved superior to local varieties. Nylon rope halters tied with a single length are light, durable and versatile, and can be washed easily with soap and water. Rope is always useful – and often stolen!
Horse experts agree that the health of a horse is in its hoof. For equestrian travellers, looking after hooves is often one of the biggest headaches. In many countries, it’s impossible to find horseshoes and nails. Even if you do, farriers can be elusive and unreliable. Horseshoes and a farrier kit are often too heavy to carry.
On the Eurasian steppe, I was travelling in the native landscape of the horse, and so I only shod my horses a handful of times. Long Riders who have to stick more to pavement or rocky terrain don’t have this luxury. By going barefoot, my horse’s hooves hardened. Rather than carrying specialised tools, I used my knife to carefully pick out stones and clean up the frog of the hoof and borrowed local tools when necessary. In winter, I carried a small hammer with which I could knock balled ice and snow out of the hooves.
Hold your horses
My greatest fear, out in the open steppes of Eurasia, was being abandoned by my horses. How could I secure them at night while allowing them to graze? I carried metal stakes and lengths of climbing rope for tethering. Nevertheless, grass was often so sparse that unless I wanted skinny horses, I had to let them go. Hobbles were crucial. The best models have leather straps that only hobble the front legs. This means your horses will travel one kilometre instead of ten if scared into flight. Useful safety tools in the event that horses do wander astray are feedbags that cover the nose. Apart from ensuring that no precious grain goes to waste, the horses see these bags from afar and come running home quickly. When this fails to work, you need a spyglass for scanning the horizon.
What separates an equestrian adventure from most other types of journey is that your job begins at the end of the day when the horses have done the miles. Repairing items is an endless chore. An awl, pre-waxed nylon thread, needles, strips of leather, rope, nylon strapping, gaffer tape, plastic ties, and tools (including a Leatherman) combine to form a lifeline for the equestrian traveller.
In principle, it may seem like a simple thing to get on the back of a horse, point it west, and ride until you hit Europe. There is, however, much more to an adventure on horseback than simply galloping with the wind.
I always found it sobering to take note of something an old Kazakh herder told me: ‘You may be able to ride a horse 200 kilometres in one day. But you can kill a horse in one day, too.’
Gun or no gun?
The most commonly asked question during my journey was ‘Are you carrying a gun?’, quickly followed by ‘What about wolves?’ and ‘What about thieves?’ In addition, some riders consider a gun essential for the time when a horse needs to be put down.
Obtaining a firearms licence as a foreigner was problematic. In addition, I’m not experienced with guns. And I didn’t believe I could justify the extra weight.
I carried firecrackers as a precaution against wolves and let these off each night. For thief protection, the solution was simple: a dog. My contingency plan for putting down a horse was to cut its throat or hit it in the right area of the head with my hand axe. Fortunately, that never came to pass.
Snowshoes for ponies
Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s final expedition to Antarctica relied on hardy Manchurian ponies. Due to a possible oversight by Scott, and reluctance by horse trainer Captain Lawrence Oates, just one quartet of specially made snowshoes for the ponies was brought from England.
When Scott did experiment with them, he wrote: ‘…this afternoon we tried our one pair of snowshoes on ‘Weary Willy’. The effect was magical. He strolled around as though walking on hard ground in places where he floundered woefully without them. Oates hasn’t any faith in these shoes at all…’
The shoes were left behind when the polar party set out from the coast. Ironically, they were used by the rescue team, who employed Himalayan mules to find Scott’s final resting place.
Had snowshoes been used, would Antarctic history have been written differently? There has never been a better example of how crucial it is to use the correct horse tack for an equestrian journey.
Don't forget...
...…to always have a knife to hand as a safety precaution for cutting ropes at crucial times when a horse becomes entangled or – as happened to one of my steeds – falls off a bridge while tied to another horse. I always wear a Finnish Pukka knife on my belt.
Tim Cope is an Australian adventurer and writer. He would like to thank the Long Riders’ Guild for its advice and contribution to this article. For more information, visit www.timcopejourneys.com
Stockists:
Bates: 01295 226 900; www.batesaustralia.com.au
Custom PackRigging: +1 250 256 7858; www.custompackrigging.com
Derby House: 0870 111 8908; www.derbyhouse.co.uk
Easycare: +1 520 297 1900; www.easycareinc.com
Iridium: 01493 603 460; www.satcomms.com
Leatherman: 01539 721 032; www.leatherman.co.uk
Long Riders’ Guild: www.thelongridersguild.com
Mountain Horse: 01462 432 596; www.mountainhorse.co.uk
MSR: 01629 580 484; www.msrgear.com
Nungar Knots: 01837 54439; www.nungarknots.co.uk
Ortileb: 01539 625 493; www.ortlieb.com
Outfitters Supply: +1 406 892 3650; www.outfitterssupply.com
Sue’s Canoes (for saddle bags): 01953 885 569; www.drybags.org.uk
Superfast: +31 30 241 1823; www.vettec.com/65/index.htm
All prices quoted are recommended/suggested retail prices
October 2008
At two in the morning, just five days into a 10,000-kilometre horseback journey from Mongolia to Hungary on the ancient trail of mounted nomads, my horses had been stolen. Ironically, the bell I held in my hand was supposed to have woken me as my alarm against thieves. Only luck had kept my third horse from the rustlers. At dawn, I rode off, and by some miracle spotted my two stolen horses in a herd under the watch of a herdsman. ‘These horses came to me by themselves this morning. You must have tied them badly!’ he said, grinning.
It would take two more horse thefts, four testing border crossings and 13 horses before I reached the Danube. During my three-and-a-half-year journey, I experienced temperatures that ranged from –50°C on the ‘starving steppe’ to +50°C in the Kazakh desert. In hindsight, this first challenge was a gentle warning: you should never underestimate the dangers waiting to scuttle an equestrian journey.
Back in the saddle
Nothing ruins more horses, cancels more trips, and causes more agony for riders than the saddle. Choosing the right saddle is crucial, but the choice can be overwhelming when faced with such a huge array of saddle types and a market driven by the latest fashion. Recommendations from experienced riders before I began included western, Australian stock, endurance, First World War cavalry, and Mongolian styles. I was left not knowing whether to use a cutting-edge or traditional model.
When choosing a saddle, it’s pertinent to reflect on the horsemen and -women who domesticated the horse on the Eurasian steppe about 5,500 years ago. They rode their way into legend under leaders such as Attila and Genghis Khan. These equestrian explorers developed the first saddle, stirrup, bridle and bit. Their lives depended on these items. Although times have changed, the principles of choosing equipment, the needs of horses, and the fundamental design of the saddle haven’t. The saddle needs to be tough, light, sturdy, versatile, functional and safe for both horse and rider.
Be wary of colourful advertisements and advances in saddle technology, which are often only of value to riders in dressage rings who seldom ride as long or as hard as ‘Long Riders’ (as members of the Long Riders’ Guild are known). For example, synthetic saddles are lighter and cheaper than leather. But they soak up water like a sponge, dry slowly, and wear out rapidly.
On the road, you will be travelling six to eight hours a day in the saddle. You will be exposed to a wide range of weather conditions, there will be scant opportunity to clean your saddle, and you will have to fit it to a variety of different-shaped horses. Long saddles distribute weight over a greater area and can reduce the risk of horse injury, but they shouldn’t apply weight beyond the ribs. Stirrups should have a wide, flat base and not be tight-fitting. D-rings need to be strong and plentiful for attaching saddlebags. If someone suggests that the saddle is proven on an extended journey, then you want names, dates and distances.
Ultimately, it doesn’t matter whether your saddle is a traditional or modern design, but it must be a work of art from an equine engineering point of view.
Choosing the wrong saddle blanket can quickly lead to saddle sores. A golden rule is that anything applied directly to the horse with pressure, or that is prone to friction, should be a natural material. Don’t be fooled by synthetic pads, which may work for riders who only travel for a few hours each week on their horses. I used cotton and woollen blankets that could be folded to create eight different sides.
Using two blankets per horse meant I had 12 clean sides before I had to wash them. Folding them into different shapes also enabled me to compensate for problematic areas of the saddle on the horse and create a better fit. These blankets could be hung out to dry at the end of a day’s ride. In the hot summer, they doubled as a way of insulating the tent from searing heat. Blankets such as these were used universally for light horse cavalry in Europe during the 20th century. Also, brushes that get through the hair to the skin are essential in keeping the horses’ backs clean and helps to prevent saddle sores.
Start the slideshow (10 pictures)
Shed the kilos
By drying meat, the Mongols said they could ‘fit a sheep in their pocket’. Travelling light was the key to their military dominance and it’s also crucial for any modern equestrian traveller. As the Long Riders’ Guild motto goes: ‘It’s not the kilometres that kill your horse. It’s the kilograms’. You should approach equestrian travel like a climber taking measures to minimise weight. Make the most of modern, ultra-light mountaineering equipment and clothing.
An item that isn’t used frequently or doesn’t have more than one use isn’t worth keeping, even if this means going without comforts. For example, use your saddle blankets instead of a sleeping mat. As an old Kalmyk saying from the steppes reminds us, ‘even a needle is weight’.
You can’t be too careful when packing a horse. Many equestrian expeditions have failed because of packsaddles that ruined the horses. Choose small saddlebags for your riding horse; large ones tempt the rider to take too much and risk severe injuries to the animal. Regardless of whether you choose the traditional sawbuck packsaddle, an early 20th-century design, or the modern adjustable style, it’s important to understand that unlike a rider who shifts his or her body and position around on a horse, pack loads are dead weight.
Fifty kilograms of load is the equivalent of a 90-kilogram person. As such, the packsaddle must be fitted to perfection, and the load must be even on both sides. A lightweight set of scales is essential. The total load shouldn’t exceed 50 kilograms.
The decision to use rigid pack boxes or soft bags is an important one. Apart from specialised journeys – such as through thick forests where bulky objects get in the way – boxes are a better option. They are faster and easier to pack, double as chairs in camp, are more durable, and protect your gear more effectively.
A halter/bridle combination is commonly used by Long Riders, but I threw away my bridle and rode without a bit. I used a rein attached to my rope halter. This allowed my horses to eat and drink freely on the move. And in winter, they didn’t have to endure metal in their mouths. Not surprisingly, Ghengis Khan forbade the wearing of bits while his army was on the march.
As proof that it’s important not to overlook modern materials, my halters proved superior to local varieties. Nylon rope halters tied with a single length are light, durable and versatile, and can be washed easily with soap and water. Rope is always useful – and often stolen!
Horse experts agree that the health of a horse is in its hoof. For equestrian travellers, looking after hooves is often one of the biggest headaches. In many countries, it’s impossible to find horseshoes and nails. Even if you do, farriers can be elusive and unreliable. Horseshoes and a farrier kit are often too heavy to carry.
On the Eurasian steppe, I was travelling in the native landscape of the horse, and so I only shod my horses a handful of times. Long Riders who have to stick more to pavement or rocky terrain don’t have this luxury. By going barefoot, my horse’s hooves hardened. Rather than carrying specialised tools, I used my knife to carefully pick out stones and clean up the frog of the hoof and borrowed local tools when necessary. In winter, I carried a small hammer with which I could knock balled ice and snow out of the hooves.
Hold your horses
My greatest fear, out in the open steppes of Eurasia, was being abandoned by my horses. How could I secure them at night while allowing them to graze? I carried metal stakes and lengths of climbing rope for tethering. Nevertheless, grass was often so sparse that unless I wanted skinny horses, I had to let them go. Hobbles were crucial. The best models have leather straps that only hobble the front legs. This means your horses will travel one kilometre instead of ten if scared into flight. Useful safety tools in the event that horses do wander astray are feedbags that cover the nose. Apart from ensuring that no precious grain goes to waste, the horses see these bags from afar and come running home quickly. When this fails to work, you need a spyglass for scanning the horizon.
What separates an equestrian adventure from most other types of journey is that your job begins at the end of the day when the horses have done the miles. Repairing items is an endless chore. An awl, pre-waxed nylon thread, needles, strips of leather, rope, nylon strapping, gaffer tape, plastic ties, and tools (including a Leatherman) combine to form a lifeline for the equestrian traveller.
In principle, it may seem like a simple thing to get on the back of a horse, point it west, and ride until you hit Europe. There is, however, much more to an adventure on horseback than simply galloping with the wind.
I always found it sobering to take note of something an old Kazakh herder told me: ‘You may be able to ride a horse 200 kilometres in one day. But you can kill a horse in one day, too.’
Gun or no gun?
The most commonly asked question during my journey was ‘Are you carrying a gun?’, quickly followed by ‘What about wolves?’ and ‘What about thieves?’ In addition, some riders consider a gun essential for the time when a horse needs to be put down.
Obtaining a firearms licence as a foreigner was problematic. In addition, I’m not experienced with guns. And I didn’t believe I could justify the extra weight.
I carried firecrackers as a precaution against wolves and let these off each night. For thief protection, the solution was simple: a dog. My contingency plan for putting down a horse was to cut its throat or hit it in the right area of the head with my hand axe. Fortunately, that never came to pass.
Snowshoes for ponies
Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s final expedition to Antarctica relied on hardy Manchurian ponies. Due to a possible oversight by Scott, and reluctance by horse trainer Captain Lawrence Oates, just one quartet of specially made snowshoes for the ponies was brought from England.
When Scott did experiment with them, he wrote: ‘…this afternoon we tried our one pair of snowshoes on ‘Weary Willy’. The effect was magical. He strolled around as though walking on hard ground in places where he floundered woefully without them. Oates hasn’t any faith in these shoes at all…’
The shoes were left behind when the polar party set out from the coast. Ironically, they were used by the rescue team, who employed Himalayan mules to find Scott’s final resting place.
Had snowshoes been used, would Antarctic history have been written differently? There has never been a better example of how crucial it is to use the correct horse tack for an equestrian journey.
Don't forget...
...…to always have a knife to hand as a safety precaution for cutting ropes at crucial times when a horse becomes entangled or – as happened to one of my steeds – falls off a bridge while tied to another horse. I always wear a Finnish Pukka knife on my belt.
Tim Cope is an Australian adventurer and writer. He would like to thank the Long Riders’ Guild for its advice and contribution to this article. For more information, visit www.timcopejourneys.com
Stockists:
Bates: 01295 226 900; www.batesaustralia.com.au
Custom PackRigging: +1 250 256 7858; www.custompackrigging.com
Derby House: 0870 111 8908; www.derbyhouse.co.uk
Easycare: +1 520 297 1900; www.easycareinc.com
Iridium: 01493 603 460; www.satcomms.com
Leatherman: 01539 721 032; www.leatherman.co.uk
Long Riders’ Guild: www.thelongridersguild.com
Mountain Horse: 01462 432 596; www.mountainhorse.co.uk
MSR: 01629 580 484; www.msrgear.com
Nungar Knots: 01837 54439; www.nungarknots.co.uk
Ortileb: 01539 625 493; www.ortlieb.com
Outfitters Supply: +1 406 892 3650; www.outfitterssupply.com
Sue’s Canoes (for saddle bags): 01953 885 569; www.drybags.org.uk
Superfast: +31 30 241 1823; www.vettec.com/65/index.htm
All prices quoted are recommended/suggested retail prices
October 2008
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