The outsiders

The Rabari, an ancient tribe of camel-herders, have lived a nomadic lifestyle in western India for centuries. But a lack of grazing land means that their traditional culture may soon disappear. Photographs by Mitchell Kanashkevich
The Rabari are a tribal group who have roamed the deserts and plains of what is today western India for almost 1,000 years. They are now found largely in Gujarat and Rajasthan, as well as some surrounding states and Pakistan. Their name, meaning ‘outsider’, refers to the fact that, as nomadic herders, they would traditionally be found on the outskirts of towns, where there was enough land for their grazing herds.

Despite the fact that only about one to two per cent of the Rabari are now full-time nomads, the main sources of Rabari income are still livestock rearing and the sale of livestock-derived products, such as leather, milk and dung. Most Rabari now live in villages, which consist of groups of small, white-washed, mud-walled houses with tiled or thatched roofs.

The shepherds are often hired to herd the livestock of entire villages, with the combined flock sometimes numbering more than 500. Traditionally, the Rabari were camel herders, enabling them to cross desert areas that were off limits to other tribal groups, but now most Rabari herdsmen also keep sheep and goats.  Herders retain a close bond with their animals, and stories of a shepherd being able to identify individual animals from the taste of their milk are not uncommon. It has proved difficult to balance the traditional nomadic way of life with more mainstream, sedentary methods of schooling – consequently, the majority of traditional Rabari remain illiterate. As a result, although many Rabari have gone on to gain qualifications and live all over the world working in numerous different professions, traditional nomadic Rabari are marginalised and poorly represented politically. Without government support, their way of life may become untenable, as the land on which they depend for grazing is rapidly disappearing to make way for the residential and industrial developments required by India’s growing population.

As the men and, occasionally, younger women are often herding the livestock, the older generations are left to run the households and look after the children. The Rabari are renowned for their embroidery skills and, as well as making their own traditional costumes, the women will make bags and bed covers, often using colourful twines and small pieces of mirror. The techniques are passed down from older family members, with some young girls practising their new-found skills while building up a collection of embroidered items that will go on to become their dowry. This can sometimes take two or three years to complete. Historically, the motifs used in the embroidery were taken from everyday sights in the desert, such as people carrying water or scorpions. This tradition still continues today, with contemporary motifs such as motorbikes and tractors often visible on Rabari crafts. As the income from herding diminishes, many Rabari women have taken jobs outside the home, meaning they have less time to practise embroidery or sew traditional costumes

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